Verdict Not Proven

Summary


WHEN Irvine Welsh was fulminating about the gentrification of Leith, I was cheering. It might not be such great raw material for supposedly shocking novels, but the idea of bars where they serve wine from bottles, not boxes; where the food doesn't spend all day on a hotplate inculcating listeria, and where the staff enquire, "What would you like?" rather than, "What do you want?" seems like a godsend.

As well as establishments such as the Kitchin and Restaurant Martin Wishart, there are plenty of excellent mid-price bistros, and now even the pub culture is beginning to undergo a metamorphosis. The chain of kooky, cool pubs now stretches from Sofi's and Boda all the way up Leith Walk to Joseph Pearce; with a rival line taking in the Espy in Portobello and the Rose Leaf on Sandport Place.

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Extract


Verdict Not Proven

I like the Rose Leaf, even though I sometimes feel too old for it. It cultivates a shabby genteel, quirkily bohemian atmosphere, with mismatched crockery and cutlery, reclaimed church ...

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