A, B, Seafood

Summary


There is one moment more than any other that grabs the attention of the dozen children in the kitchen of Martin Wishart's Cook School and holds it tight as a vice. The celebrated chef is demonstrating how to prepare fish and shellfish and has handed one boy a live lobster. He has eyes the size of saucers and a fixed, nervous grin as he holds the crustacean by its mottled black shell at arm's length while his classmates quickly step away from the lad with the lethal foodstuff.

Its powerful front claws could take a finger off, but they've been rendered harmless by blue tape. Yet still the boy holds his arm up straight, keeping the lobster as far from his body as possible. And no wonder: the crustacean is still restless and when a pen comes into range of its small back claws, the lobster grips it as if its life depends on it. It doesn't - the only remaining certainty in its life is that it will end up on a table in Wishart's eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Leith before the night is out.

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A, B, Seafood

As he explains this to the assembled children, we all know the next question. "So how do you kill the lobster?" asks the boy, speaking for all 12 of them. There's a moment's silence in which I mentally beg Wishart not to say that he's going to boil the little sucker alive; most children love gore but there will always be one who is kept awake for months by visions of lobsters perishing in a bubbling hell of boiling water.

Their necks crane forward and they stare at the chef as he briefly considers the question, but Wishart has been dispatching lobsters and crabs since he was a small child unloading creels ...

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